Caldera Public House
I’ve driven by this place at least weekly for the past 2 and a half years, and never actually gone inside, despite thinking I should every time. Last night, after a wet concert at the Edgefield, I stopped in with some friends for a late-evening rendevous.
We all ordered drinks from the good, but not over-complex drink list; I didn’t stray too far from my regular (a Manhattan), but this one had a twist of muddled ginger. It gave it a complexity and a bite I rather enjoyed.
There was surprisingly large food selection, and what we ordered off of the appetizer menu was quite good. I would especially recommend the bourbon-soaked Brie, which was melted Brie topped with a caramelized bouron glaze…supurb.
The only thing lacking at Caldera was the service; the sole bartender/waitress/cook was quite busy, and didn’t really keep up with our table. She was pleasant enough, and we didn’t notice as we weren’t in any hurry, but it was disappointingly slow.
Caldera is a good choice for the area, but if you go, be sure to have a little extra time on your hands.
Fonda Rosa
Just found Fonda Rosa by accident on Saturday morning. Don’t expect your typical combo platter to be on the menu, but you will find traditional, simple, and amazingly flavorful dishes that I haven’t seen since I spent time in Mexico! I highly recommend you give it a try, I know I will be going back again soon…once I do, expect to see it gracing this page again!
Fonda Rosa – 108 NE 28th Ave – 503-235-3828
davis street tavern
Valentine’s Day 2009. I opted for a new restaurant this year, and chose the Davis Street Tavern in Old Town Portland. I had made reservations for 6 PM, two days prior and even had to speak with the manager to get my name on the list, but when I arrived the place was basically empty, with the single exception of two people at the bar. Of course, we had to find the place before we could actually sit down, and even though it is on the corner, the only marking in small logos in the windows; it has no wall or street marking that I could see.
The place did fill up throughout the evening, but never once was every table full. Because we were some of the first people to arrive, we were doted on hand and foot by the attentive staff. They kept our table clean, our drinks filled, and timed the delivery of each course perfectly, giving us a few minutes in-between each to prepare for the next.
The restaurant had a special menu for Valentine’s Day, and guests could opt for either three course or five course meals, and we opted for the latter. It consisted of your choice of three appetizers, one entrée, and one dessert. For the most part, the food was well prepared, and plated with a touch of elegance making for beautiful presentation.
After our order, the chef brought to our table an aperitif of sliced apple, manchego cheese, and house roasted, candied nuts; it was fabulous, blending the elements of sweet and tart very well.
The Tuna Tartini appetizer was tartar, but served in a martini glass, and was one of the best starters we had. The tuna was very tender and chilled, it blended very well with the mild flavor of the Avocado, but the cilantro really brought the flavors together. We also had Oysters, which though tasty (and not too briny) were very small. The Fois Gras Torchon was highly recommended by our server, and the Fois Gras itself was quite flavorful, and much denser than I’ve had before. However the sauce, which was a Prosecco-Date Emulsion, completely overpowered the dish; I found myself avoiding the sauce simply so that I could taste the Fois Gras.
Both salads were excellent and uniquely prepared. They had oversized croutons and cheese cubes, and the Caesar was served with un-chopped lettuce leaves, and left us both quite contented while waiting for our main course.
Both the Seared Sea Scallops and the Grilled New York Strip Steak were exquisitely prepared and plated, the flavor of each was complimented, not overpowered, by its’ sides.
For dessert, a Mocha Mousse was ordered, along with the Dark Chocolate Bread Pudding. The Mousse was delicious, thick and heavily chocolate complimented by unsweetened espresso foam. I did find the Bread Pudding to be somewhat misleading. Dark chocolate bread pudding makes me think of just that, but this dessert was a classic style bread pudding lightly laced with dark chocolate, but hardly enough to even notice.
In regards to drinks, they had a short but good wine list, and a handful of homemade liquor drinks. I opted for the Vesper, which is derived from the drink that James Bond drinks in Casino Royale, given my slight obsession with movies. It was very tasty, albeit strong, mixing vodka, gin, lemon, and bitters. The drink was well poured, with no flavor overpowering another, and it had a nice citrus finish.
So, overall, Davis St. Tavern knows how to make a good meal, but it is the little things where they fall short. It is great for a night out on the town, but not for the budget: it would be tough to get a full meal, drinks, and tip for under $50. There were both highs and lows during our night out, but there were certainly more highs, making the evening one to remember. This place has a lot of potential, and is in a great spot sitting right in the heart of the revitalizing Old Town neighborhood.
Nasca
I visited Nasca for the first time this past weekend, and am quite happy that I finally made the trip. This small restaurant off of busy Sandy Boulevard at 47th Avenue barely seats twenty people, but serves some of the best traditional Peruvian food around.
Nasca has a minimalist atmosphere, with only small, unadorned tables and little artwork or decoration. This feeling is fitting with the food selection, in that the menu only carries half-a-dozen appetizers and again as many entrees. Because the food is quite authentic (confirmed by Peruvians in my family) many are unadorned and straightforward. This does not mean, however, that they lack in flavor or presentation.
I ordered Empanadas as an appetizer, Creamed Quinoa (kee-no-a) for dinner, and Picarones for dessert. The Empanadas came two to an order, and were small but well sized for a starter. The crust was flaky and crisp, while the filling remained moist; it was a good combination of flavors, combining sweet and savory well. The creamed Quinoa with caramelized onions and goat cheese is the only vegetarian option on the menu, but it holds up well to the meatier dishes. This dish is indicative of many, given that the title describes all aspects of what it is. The flavor of the quinoa was subtle, while the tart vinegar notes from the onions blended well, adding a much-needed complexity to the dish. The dessert, Picarones, is a traditional pumpkin dough fritter, topped with warm maple syrup. They were crispy, dense yet soft, not too sweet, and they left me satisfied, yet wanting just one more – a perfect end to a great meal!
Nasca is a gem tucked into a small corner on an oft-overlooked area of Northeast Portland. Very well prepared traditional food, great service, and for those of us watching our wallets, two people can easily have a three-course meal for less than $50. There aren’t too many places featuring Latin-American (other than Mexican) food, and Nasca is a welcome addition to the city.
4644 NE Sandy Blvd – (503) 493-4298
Roots Organic Brewery
I visited Roots brewery, in its very inconspicuous location just off of SE Hawthorne on SE 7th, this evening for the first time since they expanded their menu. As always, the beer and beer selection is excellent, and the menu finally makes Roots worthy of visiting for an evening out with friends. On my previous visits, the beer was good, but the menu was significantly lacking, and therefore this local brewpub was not a great destination for anything but a quick beer. With the new menu and expanded kitchen, the food is very well prepared, and the selection is quite good. They hold true to the “organic” feel that they have created for their beers, and the menu is organic as well, offering several choices for both the vegetarians and omnivores among us.
I ordered both “Helmey’s Burger” (named after the head chef) and the Vegetarian Quesadilla. The burger was a healthy sized patty on a chiabatta roll; the meat was juicy and flavorful, and the toppings were plentiful and gave good character to the burger. The bun was soft, fresh, and lightly grilled to warm it up, and it came with a side of the perennial favorite “Tim’s Cascade” potato chips. The Quesadilla was also very well prepared, and was healthily sized for an appetizer order. The tortilla was crisp while not too greasy, and the filling was very flavorful with a good portion of melted cheese.
Moving on to the beer, I am typically impressed with the quality of brew at Roots. I was equally happy today, with one exception. I had three distinct brews, the “Epic Ale,” the “Woody IPA,” and the “Flanders Red.” The IPA is a staple at Roots, and is consistently excellent. It is overly hoppy with a slightly bitter finish, and the flavor lingers long after you drink it. This years’ Epic Ale was also quite delicious, with an almost sweet overtone lingering on the palate. It is very reminiscent of a barley wine, but not with the typical tanginess associated with one. I was somewhat disappointed with the “Flanders Red” although several of my friends enjoyed it. It was aged in Pino Noir barrels, which made its’ flavor a cross between beer and light red wine. I heard it described as a “sweet and sour” beer.
Overall, I found Roots to be very improved in recent months over its previous state. Most weekends they have live music (always free) and have a large screen TV to watch the day’s game. Most game days they have specials, and they have several throughout the week as well. Roots has excellent beer (in my opinion some of the best Portland has to offer), and finally has a menu to match. While it may not be the largest selection in town, it gives Roots the feel of an evening destination, not just somewhere to grab a quick pint.
1520 SE 7th, Portland, Oregon
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